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Whisky

The Manhattan explained

The Manhattan is the old fashioned's more elegant cousin. It swaps sugar for sweet vermouth and is served up rather than on ice. Here is how it is built and what usually goes wrong.

Two parts whisky to one part vermouth

The classic spec is 60 ml of rye or bourbon, 30 ml of sweet vermouth and two dashes of Angostura bitters. Stir it with ice, strain it into a chilled coupe or small stemmed glass and drop in a cherry. There is no ice in the finished drink.

That two to one ratio is a starting point, not a law. A sweeter vermouth or a softer whisky may want a little less vermouth. A big, spicy rye can carry a little more.

Rye came first

The Manhattan appears in American drinks writing in the late 1800s. The popular story places its birth at the Manhattan Club in New York, though historians doubt the details. What is clear is that rye was the usual whisky at the time.

Rye works well because its spice and dryness cut through the sweetness of the vermouth. Bourbon, with more corn in the mash, makes a rounder, sweeter drink. Our guide to grains in whisky explains where those differences come from.

On Indian shelves, American rye is harder to find than bourbon and usually costs more. Do not let that stop you. A bourbon with a higher share of rye in its mash bill, often described as spicy or high rye on the label, lands somewhere between the two styles. A Canadian whisky works too. The drink is forgiving as long as the vermouth is fresh and the stir is cold.

Vermouth is wine and it goes stale

Sweet vermouth is a fortified, aromatised wine, usually around 15 to 18% ABV, flavoured with herbs and spices. Fortification helps it last longer than table wine, but once opened it still oxidises. Left in a warm cupboard it turns flat and slightly sour within weeks.

In India that warning matters twice over. Keep opened vermouth in the fridge with the cap tight and try to finish it within a month or so. Buy smaller bottles if you only make the odd cocktail. Stale vermouth is behind more disappointing Manhattans than any choice of whisky.

Choosing a vermouth

Vermouth is a third of the drink, so its quality shows. Sweet vermouth, also called red or rosso, is the Italian style: deep amber, sweet and spiced, often with vanilla and bitter orange notes. Dry vermouth is the paler French style, crisp and herbal. A classic Manhattan uses sweet.

Taste your vermouth on its own over ice before you mix with it. If you would not enjoy a small glass of it, it will not improve a cocktail. Brands vary a lot in sweetness and bitterness, which is why the two to one ratio sometimes needs adjusting.

The cherry question

The garnish is traditionally a cherry. The bright red, almost plastic ones from a jar add colour and little else. Darker cocktail cherries preserved in syrup add a gentle fruit note that suits the drink.

If you cannot find good cherries, a strip of orange peel twisted over the glass works well. A lemon twist suits the dry version. Some drinkers skip the garnish altogether. That is allowed.

The variations teach balance

Once you know the base, the classic variations are each a single change:

  • Perfect Manhattan. Split the vermouth into equal parts sweet and dry. Less sweet, more herbal.
  • Dry Manhattan. Dry vermouth only, usually with a lemon twist.
  • Rob Roy. Scotch instead of American whiskey.
  • Reverse Manhattan. More vermouth than whisky, so a lower strength drink.

Making two side by side is the quickest way to learn what vermouth does.

Temperature and dilution make it

Stir for 20 to 30 seconds with plenty of ice, until the mixing glass feels painfully cold. That stir adds roughly a fifth of the volume as water, which softens the alcohol and knits the flavours together. Chill the serving glass in the freezer while you stir.

Because it is served without ice, a Manhattan warms as you drink it. Keep the serve modest and drink it while it is cold. It holds 60 ml of spirit plus fortified wine, so it is a strong drink. Sip it slowly with water alongside and plan your ride home before the first one.

Taste the parts before you mix them

Before your next Manhattan, pour 10 ml of the whisky and 10 ml of the vermouth into separate glasses. Taste each one alone and write down three words for each. Then make the drink and taste it again.

Look for where your words went. Usually the whisky's spice and the vermouth's herbs survive while the sweetness and burn soften. That small exercise is how you learn to design a drink rather than follow one.

Common questions

What is the ratio for a Manhattan?

The classic is two parts whisky to one part sweet vermouth, with two dashes of Angostura bitters. Adjust a little to suit your vermouth.

Should a Manhattan be shaken or stirred?

Stirred. It contains no juice, so shaking only clouds it and adds too much water.

How long does vermouth last once opened?

Kept tightly capped in the fridge, about a month before it tastes noticeably tired. In a warm cupboard it fades much faster.