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Tasting

Beer with smoked barbecue and grilled meats

Barbecue covers two very different kinds of cooking: long, slow smoking and quick, hot grilling. Both create flavours that beer can match well. Here is how we would choose the beer for each.

Smoke and char are different flavours

American style barbecue cooks meat slowly in wood smoke at low temperatures, often around 110 to 120 °C (225 to 250 °F), for many hours. Brisket can take more than twelve. The meat absorbs smoke and forms a dark, crusty bark. Grilling is the opposite: high heat, short time and a charred surface from the Maillard reaction and caramelisation.

Smoke and char both have links to malt. Kilned and roasted malts are produced by heating grain, which creates similar toasty, caramel and roasted compounds. That is why darker and maltier beers so often feel at home with barbecue.

Brisket and beef ribs want malt and roast

Smoked brisket is rich, fatty and deeply smoky, with a peppery bark. It needs a beer with real body. A porter at 4.5 to 6% ABV is a classic match: roasted malt meets smoke while the carbonation lifts fat.

A Märzen or a Vienna lager is the lighter option, with toasty malt and a clean lager finish. A smoked beer such as a Bamberg style Rauchbier doubles the smoke. Some people love it with brisket. Others find it too much. Try it on a small pour first.

Pulled pork and sauces change the balance

Pulled pork is smoked pork shoulder, shredded and usually dressed with sauce. Sauces vary a lot: sweet tomato and molasses styles, vinegar based ones that are thin and tangy and mustard based ones that are sharp.

With sweet sauce, choose a beer with malt to match: an amber ale, a brown ale or a Vienna lager. With vinegar sauce, a crisp Pilsner or a pale ale cuts through cleanly. With mustard sauce, a saison handles the sharpness with its own peppery yeast character. Sweet sauces make bitter beers taste harsher, so save the IPA for the vinegar style.

Ribs, sausages and burgers

Pork ribs, with a sweet glaze and a smoky crust, suit a brown ale or an amber lager. Grilled sausages, salty and fatty, are a natural partner for a Helles or a Märzen, as anyone who has been to a Bavarian beer garden knows. Burgers off a hot grill, with char and melted cheese, are happy with a pale ale at 30 to 45 IBU, whose citrus hops cut through the fat.

If the barbecue includes chicken wings in hot sauce, move to lower bitterness. A hefeweizen or a witbier handles chilli much better than an IPA.

The Indian grill runs hotter than most

India has its own long tradition of fire cooking. A tandoor runs extremely hot, so tandoori chicken, seekh kebabs and boti kebabs get a quick char over a yoghurt and spice marinade. Coal grilled kebabs at street stalls in Lucknow, Hyderabad and Kolkata add smoke too. Our guide to beer with Naga smoked pork covers the North East's own smoking tradition.

For tandoori chicken, a Vienna lager or a Märzen picks up the char. With smoky seekh kebabs, try a schwarzbier: light in body but with a roasted note. The yoghurt marinade makes very roasty stouts less comfortable, so lean towards the lighter dark beers.

Grilled vegetables and paneer

Barbecues in India almost always need a vegetarian side. Grilled corn with lime and chilli, charred peppers, mushrooms and paneer tikka all pick up smoke and char. They are lighter than meat, so the beer should be too.

A Vienna lager suits charred paneer and peppers. Grilled corn with butter and chilli loves a crisp lager or a wheat beer. Mushrooms, earthy and savoury, go well with a brown ale or a dunkel.

The fuel matters too. Charcoal gives a clean, intense heat. Hardwoods such as oak, hickory or fruitwood give stronger smoke flavours, from mild and sweet to sharp and bacon like. A light smoke on chicken or fish suits a Vienna lager. Heavy smoke on beef stands up to a porter. If you over smoke the meat, the flavour turns bitter and acrid. No beer will rescue it. Thin, pale blue smoke is what pitmasters aim for, not thick white clouds.

Keep beer cold at an outdoor cookout

A barbecue is often outdoors and in the heat. Beer warms quickly in the sun. A lager at 15 °C loses its crispness. Keep bottles in a cooler of ice and water, pour small glasses and refill often. Serve porters and brown ales a little warmer than lagers, at 8 to 12 °C, but still out of direct sun. Have water and soft drinks on hand. The person on the grill should stay sober enough to handle fire safely.

Try a quick test: taste brisket or a smoky kebab with a pale lager and then with a porter. The lager refreshes but adds nothing. The porter tastes like part of the meal. That is intensity matching. It is a skill you can train.

Your first step: at your next barbecue, add one porter or one Märzen to the cooler beside the usual lager. Taste both with the smokiest thing on the grill.

Common questions

What beer goes best with smoked brisket?

A porter or a Märzen. Roasted or toasted malt meets the smoke and bark while carbonation lifts the fat.

What beer suits tandoori chicken?

A Vienna lager or Märzen picks up the tandoor char. A schwarzbier is a good match for smoky seekh kebabs.

Does IPA go with barbecue?

With vinegar based sauces and burgers, yes. With sweet sauces or chilli heavy wings, high bitterness can taste harsh.