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Styles

Pilsner or Helles: how the two pale German lagers differ

Pilsner and Helles look almost identical: pale gold, clear, with a white head. Taste them side by side, though. They are clearly different beers. Here is where they came from, what separates them and how to tell them apart.

Two pale lagers, one difference in emphasis

The simplest way to put it: pilsner is about hops, Helles is about malt. Both are pale, clean, cold-fermented lagers around 4.5 to 5.5% ABV. A pilsner has a firm, crisp bitterness and a floral, spicy hop aroma. A Helles has a soft, rounded, bready malt flavour with just enough bitterness to keep it from being sweet.

Our pilsner style guide and Helles style guide go into each in detail. Here we compare them directly.

Where pilsner came from

Pilsner was first brewed in 1842 in the Bohemian town of Plzeň, now in the Czech Republic. The town's brewers, unhappy with the quality of their beer, hired a Bavarian brewer who made a pale lager using pale malt, local Saaz hops and Plzeň's very soft water. The result was a golden, clear beer at a time when most beer was darker. It spread quickly across Europe.

Today there are two main branches. Czech pale lager is richer, with a fuller malt body and soft Saaz bitterness. German pils is paler, drier and crisper, with a sharper bitterness and a cleaner finish.

Where Helles came from

Helles means pale or light in German. It was developed in Munich in the 1890s, partly as Bavaria's answer to the popularity of pale pilsner-style beers. Munich's water is harder than Plzeň's, which makes high hop bitterness taste harsh, so Munich brewers emphasised malt instead. The result was a softer, rounder, more malt-forward golden lager.

Helles became the everyday beer of Bavaria, served by the litre in beer halls and beer gardens.

What the brewer controls

Behind the glass, a few brewing choices create the difference. Water comes first: soft water lets hop bitterness taste clean, which is why pilsner suits it, while harder water pushes brewers towards malt. Hop rate and timing come next. A pilsner gets more hops overall and a late addition for aroma; a Helles gets just enough for balance. Malt matters too, with some Helles brewers using a little Munich or other lightly kilned malt for extra bread and depth.

Both beers then need weeks of cold lagering. Neither has anywhere to hide a fault, so both are tests of a brewer's skill.

How they differ in the glass

Bitterness. German pils typically sits around 22 to 40 IBU, with a clear, lingering bitterness. Helles sits around 16 to 22 IBU, enough to balance but not to stand out.

Aroma. Pilsner has a noticeable floral, herbal or spicy hop aroma from German or Czech noble hops. Helles has a gentle bready, grainy malt aroma with only a light hop note.

Flavour and finish. Pilsner tastes crisp and dry, with the bitterness lingering after you swallow. Helles tastes soft and slightly sweet, with a clean but rounded finish.

Colour. Both are pale gold. German pils is often slightly paler.

Which one suits you and your food

If you enjoy bitterness and a sharp, refreshing finish, pilsner is your beer. If you prefer something softer and easier, try Helles. Many drinkers coming from mainstream Indian lager find Helles the gentler step, because it has less bitterness.

With food, pilsner's crisp bitterness cuts through fried and rich dishes: pakoras, butter chicken, a plate of fish fry. Helles works with gentler food, such as idli, dosa, grilled paneer or a simple pulao. With very spicy food, Helles is usually the friendlier choice, because bitterness amplifies chilli heat. Pairings are suggestions; try both.

How to taste them side by side

The best way to learn the difference is to taste them together. Pour a small measure of each into identical glasses at the same temperature, around 6 to 8 °C. Smell both: the pilsner should be more floral, the Helles more bready. Then taste and pay attention to what happens after you swallow. The pilsner's bitterness lingers. The Helles fades softly.

Freshness matters for both. Pale lagers show oxidation and lightstruck faults easily, so buy from a fridge and check the date. A stale pilsner loses its hop aroma. A stale Helles tastes of wet cardboard.

Telling two similar beers apart is one of the core skills of tasting. Pale lagers are where it is hardest, because there is so little to hide behind.

Common questions

Is Helles a type of pilsner?

No. Both are pale German lagers, but Helles is a separate style developed in Munich in the 1890s. It is softer, maltier and less bitter than pilsner.

Which is more bitter, pilsner or Helles?

Pilsner. German pils typically has around 22 to 40 IBU, while Helles sits around 16 to 22 IBU.

Where was pilsner first brewed?

In Plzeň, in what is now the Czech Republic, in 1842.