English hops for bitters and porters, from Fuggle to Goldings

What makes a hop English

English hops are grown mainly in Kent, Herefordshire and Worcestershire, in a cool, damp climate. Most traditional varieties have modest alpha acids and soft, rounded aromas: earth, wood, herbs, spice, honey and a gentle citrus like orange peel or marmalade.

Compared with American hops, they are quieter. An English pale ale smells of malt and yeast as much as hops, with the hops adding seasoning rather than a fruit bomb. That balance is the whole style. Our guide to English bitter shows how the pieces fit together.

Fuggle

Fuggle was introduced in Kent in the 1870s and became one of the most planted hops in England for decades. Its alpha acid is low, typically around 3 to 5.5%, so it is mostly used for flavour and aroma.

The character is earthy, woody and minty, with a soft grassy edge. It suits porters, milds, brown ales and darker bitters. In a pale beer it can read a little muddy on its own, so many brewers pair it with Goldings.

Fuggle also travelled. Styrian Golding, grown in Slovenia, is genetically a Fuggle despite the name. Willamette in the United States has Fuggle parentage.

East Kent Goldings

Goldings is an older family of hops. East Kent Goldings is the one grown in that part of Kent. Alpha acid is usually around 4 to 6%.

It is the hop many brewers think of first for English pale ale and bitter: honey, lavender, gentle spice and a smooth, rounded bitterness. It works at every stage, from the boil to the cask, where a handful of whole hops is the traditional dry hop.

If a recipe calls for Goldings and you cannot get East Kent, other Goldings types are a fair swap. They are not identical, but they sit in the same family.

The workhorses: Challenger, Target, Northdown and Admiral

Modern English breeding produced higher alpha hops for bittering without losing the English character.

• Challenger (around 6.5 to 8.5%). Spicy, fruity and clean. Excellent dual purpose hop for bitters and stouts.
• Target (around 9.5 to 12.5%). Strong bittering hop with a sharp, slightly sage-like aroma. Best early in the boil.
• Northdown (around 7 to 10%). Woody and slightly fruity. Good in porters and darker ales.
• Admiral (around 13 to 16%). High alpha, citrus and resin. Efficient bittering.

For a homebrewer, one of these as the bittering hop plus Goldings or Fuggle late covers most English recipes.

Fruitier English hops

English breeders have also produced hops with more fruit. Bramling Cross has a striking blackcurrant and spice character that suits porters and Christmas ales. First Gold, a dwarf variety, is orange and spice. Newer varieties such as Jester and Olicana push into grapefruit and tropical notes, closer to New World hops.

These are fun to experiment with once you know the classics. Start with Fuggle and Goldings so you have a reference point.

Brewing with English hops at home

Keep bitterness balanced to the malt. A best bitter often sits around 30 to 40 IBU, with a firm but not harsh finish. Use the bittering hop at the start of the boil, then Goldings or Fuggle in the last 15 minutes and again at flameout.

Pair them with English pale ale malt, a little crystal malt and an English ale yeast. The yeast's fruity esters and the hops' earthy spice work together, which is why American yeast in an English bitter often tastes flat.

For India, the usual hop rules apply. English hops are imported, so buy small packs, store them in the freezer and use them within a few months. A pack of Goldings that has sat warm on a shelf loses its delicate honey note first and turns cheesy if left long enough.

Where they fit among other hops

English hops sit between two groups: the delicate, floral noble hops of Germany and the Czech Republic on one side, the bold American and New Zealand varieties on the other. Our guide to noble hops covers the continental side, while hop varieties for beginners gives the wider map. Learning to taste the difference between them is one of the most useful skills a new brewer can build.

Common questions

What is the difference between Fuggle and Goldings?

Fuggle is earthier and woodier, while East Kent Goldings is softer, with honey and gentle spice. Many English recipes use both.

Can I use English hops in an IPA?

Yes, for an English IPA. It will be earthier and less fruity than an American IPA, with more malt in the balance.

What is a good bittering hop for English ales?

Challenger, Target, Northdown or Admiral. They bitter efficiently and keep an English character.