Cooking with beer: which styles work in curries and batters

What happens to beer in a pan

Heat changes beer quickly. Carbonation disappears in seconds. Water and some alcohol evaporate. Sugars caramelise and malt flavours deepen. Hop bitterness, on the other hand, concentrates as the liquid reduces and can become harsh.

That gives one simple rule: the longer the cook and the more you reduce, the less bitter the beer should be. Our guide to beer and food pairing basics covers the same principles at the table.

Use beer you would happily drink. Open it fresh. Flat, stale beer left over from a party brings stale, papery flavours into the food.

Batters: lager and wheat beer

Beer batter works because of bubbles and a little acidity. Carbonation lightens the batter and helps it puff and crisp when it hits hot oil. Alcohol evaporates faster than water, so the coating sets and dries quickly in the oil. The beer's sugars and proteins help it brown.

• Pale lager. The default. Clean, fizzy and neutral. Use it ice cold, straight from the fridge. Mix the batter just before frying so the bubbles survive.
• Wheat beer. A little extra flavour and plenty of fizz. Witbier adds a hint of orange that suits fish.

Try lager in place of water in pakora or bhaji batter, or for an Amritsari fish batter with besan, ajwain and chilli. Keep it light and fry in small batches so the oil stays hot.

Curries and gravies: malty, low-bitterness beers

In gravies, beer adds depth rather than obvious beer flavour. Choose malty styles with low bitterness.

• Brown ale or amber ale. Nutty, caramel notes suit onion-tomato bases for chicken or mutton.
• Dry stout. Roast and gentle bitterness work in rich, dark gravies such as a Kerala-style beef fry or a mutton curry. Our dry stout guide describes the style.
• Witbier. Light and spiced, good in a coconut-based fish or prawn curry. Our witbier guide explains its orange and coriander character.

Add beer after the masala has been fried, in place of part of the water. Simmer for at least 15 to 20 minutes so the raw beer edge cooks out.

Braises and slow cooking

For long braises, malt sweetness is your friend and hop bitterness your enemy. Porters, stouts, dunkel and Belgian dubbel all work in slow-cooked mutton, pork or beef. Their dark malt flavours deepen during hours of cooking.

Balance any bitterness with a little sweetness or acidity: jaggery, tomato, tamarind or caramelised onion. A spoon of jaggery is often enough to round off a stout braise.

Marinades

Beer can tenderise and flavour meat in a marinade, much like yoghurt does in a tandoori marinade. A light lager or wheat beer with garlic, ginger and spices works for chicken and prawns. A darker beer suits mutton and pork. Marinate in the fridge, never at room temperature in Indian heat. Two to four hours is usually enough for chicken and prawns. Throw away used marinade, or boil it hard before using it as a sauce.

Styles to avoid in long cooking

• Very hoppy IPAs and double IPAs. Bitterness concentrates as they reduce and can ruin a dish. Use them only in quick applications like a batter or a vinaigrette, if at all.
• Sour beers. Acidity can work in small amounts, but strong sours can curdle dairy-based gravies.
• Heavily smoked beers. Smoke intensifies with cooking. Use a little, blended with a milder beer.

If in doubt, taste the beer warm and flat first. If you would not want to drink it that way, it probably will not help the dish.

Alcohol, children and guests

Cooking does not remove all the alcohol. Some remains even after a long simmer. A quick sauté or a batter keeps much more. Tell guests when a dish contains beer. Think carefully before serving it to children, pregnant guests or anyone who avoids alcohol for health or religious reasons. A good alternative in most recipes is non-alcoholic beer or stock.

Cooking with beer is a good way to learn what different styles actually taste like once the bubbles and cold are gone. Taste the pot as you go and notice which beer flavours survive the heat.

Common questions

Which beer is best for beer batter?

A cold, pale lager. Its carbonation lightens the batter. Its neutral flavour does not get in the way. Wheat beer also works well.

Can I use IPA in cooking?

Only in quick dishes like batters. In long-cooked curries or braises, IPA bitterness concentrates and can make the dish harsh.

Does alcohol cook off when you cook with beer?

Not completely. Some alcohol remains even after a long simmer. More remains in quick dishes. Tell guests and use non-alcoholic beer where needed.

What beer goes in a mutton curry?

A malty, low-bitterness beer such as a brown ale, dry stout or porter, added after the masala is fried and simmered for at least 15 to 20 minutes.